Everest Lager Beer – Kathmandu, Nepal
Sitting on our hotel balcony, we sampled a couple tall bottles of Nepal’s popular lager while playing a few rounds of cribbage. We had just spent the day exploring the remarkable temples of Kathmandu, connecting with the frantic city and its rich culture. Many travelers choose to skip Kathmandu, using it as a hub to find cheap holiday deals to the Himalayas. We were glad we went against the trend and dedicated a few days to Nepal’s spiritual capital city.

The beer verdict – Flavourful, slightly malty and smooth with clean bitterness. We give it 7 out of 10

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Dorado Cerveza – Los Andes, Chile
After narrowly missing our bus from Valparaiso Chile to Mendoza Argentina, we changed our plans and caught the next bus to Los Andes instead. It was a last minute decision but we were feeling adventurous that day. We had never heard of the city and knew nothing about it, except that it offered a morning bus to Mendoza. We spent hours wandering the city streets looking for a place to sleep, with no luck. Finally, after feeling thoroughly defeated, we found a poorly visible guest house that had accommodations in our budget price range – we definitely got what we paid for!  This 6-pack was enjoyed in the guest house courtyard, the only feature about the guest house worth mentioning.

A Journey to the land of Golden Spires

If you have read classic novels about adventures to the Far East, you would have heard of Burma and Rangoon mentioned.. But whatever happened to Burma now, you might ask? The country has changed its name to Myanmar, and Rangoon, the former capital, is now called Yangon. For the few who have ventured to this Southeast Asian nation, you will have found a treasure that much of the rest of the world have yet to discover. The country is under strict military rule, and getting in is part of the excitement. The rules for visas can change very quickly from time to time, and it is always wise to check with the nearest embassy what the rules are.

When I was about to embark on this trip, I read somewhere that Visa on Arrival is now available in Myanmar, starting 1st of May 2010. I initially presumed it was all good, until I just had to ask a local travel agent in Myanmar about this visa on arrival scheme. Luckily I did ask early on, as apparently the government decided to scrap the Visa On Arrival scheme because the country’s elections are happening in November. The military regime wants to restrict the number of foreign visitors into the country for their security reasons. I won’t go into the politics side of things, and I should not mention Nobel Peace Prize winner Aung San Suu Kyi and her quest for democracy in this country (oops, I just said it, tough…) but in short, the government has its own ways of making rules, and you just have to adhere to them in order to be safe.

Why Myanmar?

“So why Myanmar?“, my friends asked me. Well, it’s mainly 2 things that drew me to go there: Firstly, I have always been fascinated by the temples in Myanmar, particularly Bagan and the Shwe Dagon. The stories of Shwe Dagon, even from the first explorers in the 16th Century, have captivated my imagination of the grandeur and splendour of the temples of Myanmar. Secondly, I hardly know of anyone who has been to Myanmar apart from my brother-in-law, and it gave me a sense of excitement to visit a place that not many people have visited.

Is it safe to visit Myanmar?

This is one question I asked before I left, and I have read a number of travellers who have said that it is one of the safest places they have ever been. And I would have to agree totally! I felt safer in Myanmar than in other Southeast Asian countries. It may sound surprising considering what you hear on the news about the government’s oppression of the people, but in reality, life goes on like normal there, and perhaps the harsh punishment for crimes committed in Myanmar have played a big part in ensuring people’s safety. People are genuinely nice and helpful, and it’s really reassuringly safe there.

Should Tourist Visit Myanmar?

If you are one of the many people who are against the oppressive military junta ruling Myanmar, then you may have second thoughts of going there and supporting their country. Aung San Suu Kyi, the enigmatic Nobel Peace Prize winner and outspoken opposition of the regime, has been discouraging people to visit Myanmar to stop the flow of money into the government’s coffers. However, at the end of the day, the millions of ordinary and innocent citizens of this country also end up suffering if the tourism industry suddenly dies down. It is a much more difficult situation if the innocent citizens would lose their source of income and further cause them pain. I’m of the opinion that so long as you buy something direct from the people and not from a government institution, that I’m helping poor people get through the tough times and alleviate them from poverty.

How to Get To Myanmar

The easiest way to enter Myanmar with less restrictions (in terms of where you can go in the country) is by flying into the former capital of Yangon (Rangoon). Yangon, Myanmar’s biggest city and commercial centre,  has the main international airport of the country, and is serviced by flights from Singapore, Bangkok, Hanoi, Kuala Lumpur, Chiang Mai and Kunming. Mandalay has the only other international airport, but the only international flight it handles is to Kunming in China (there used to be flights from Chiang Mai, but it got cancelled).

Flying into Yangon is a lot better than what it used to be. They now have a more modern international airport, and have turned their old crumbling international terminal into a domestic terminal. From Sydney, I found a flight via Silk Air and Singapore Airlines through the Zuji website. Though many airlines (even budget airlines like Air Asia and Jetstar) now flies to Yangon, I found that Silk Air offers the most number of flights to Yangon via Singapore. The other airlines that service Yangon are Thai Airways, Malaysia Airlines, Bangkok Airways, Vietnam Airlines, and China Eastern Airlines.

Yangon at a glance

The picture above is of a cat sitting on the second hand books of one of the many roadside bookstand vendors. I just can’t resist taking a photo of this cute cat.. I’m tempted to call it a Burmese cat (since I found it truly in Burma!). Anyway, Yangon, though it’s a slowly decaying city, has a lot of charm to it. The vendors on the street selling food, fruits, and second hand books (it is a book collector’s paradise for second hand hard-to-find books!) make the city so unique and colourful.

The city of Yangon is situated at the banks of the Yangon River. It has a busy port, and was one of the most important ports of the British Empire in the 17th-19th century. You will notice the great deal of old imposing colonial buildings around the city, a sign that Yangon was full of glory during the British colonial era. Some of the best attractions in Yangon are actually the golden stupas and pagodas that dot the city. There are 3 amazing pagodas that you must visit while in the city (and this is also according to Lonely Planet’s Myanmar travel guide, which happens to be the only travel guidebook I can find about this country):

1.) Shwe Dagon Pagoda

This is the MUST SEE of all the pagodas in the entire country of Myanmar. It is Myanmar’s most sacred site, and truly a sight to behold! The Shwe Dagon pagoda is stuff of legends. It’s been mentioned by a 15th Century British explorer as the most beautiful structure ever seen on earth. Even Rudyard Kipling is so impressed by this towering golden structure. Its imposing spire glistens by day and radiates with great luminescence at night. The Shwe Dagon pagoda is 98 meters tall and sits on a hill near Kandawgyi lake. It towers above all structures, and can be see from a distance in the city centre. The huge complex where the pagoda sits has so many spires and small temple buildings around, that you can easily spend half a day just wandering around the temple complex. The best time to visit this temple is at sunset, when you get great lighting from the sun, and also a spectacular view of the setting sun behind the temple.

2.) Botataung Pagoda

The Botataung (or Botahtaung) Pagoda is regarded as the second most important Buddhist site in Yangon. This pagoda literally means “1,000 military officers”, as historically, a thousand military officers of the King were drawn up to welcome the arrival of Buddha’s relics from India to this riverside site. The pagoda was completely destroyed during the Second World War in 1943, but was rebuilt in 1948 when Burma (as the country was then known) gained independence from Britain.

The unique thing about the Botataung pagoda is that it is the only pagoda where you can actually go inside the dome to view the relic. Most, if not all, pagodas in Myanmar are enclosed and you cannot enter into them. The pagoda is by the banks of the Yangon River, and it is next to the jetty, where you can see some locals taking the ferry across to the other side of the river.

3.) Sule Paya/ Sule Pagoda

The Sule Paya (or Sule Pagoda) is located right in the heart of Yangon’s CBD. It is in the middle of a roundabout along the Sule Paya Road, and acts like a centrepiece of the central city. This pagoda is thought to be built before the Shwe Dagon pagoda. It has become an important part of the economic and political life in Myanmar, as protests in 1988 and 2007 against the government have started at this point. As with all the other pagodas, you are required to take off your shoes before entering the Sule Pagoda complex. There is a US entrance fee for tourists with cameras.

I will break this post for now, but watch out for more information about Yangon and the rest of my experience in Myanmar.

Til then, have a Fabulous Journey ahead!

More of Yangon – Attractions, Shopping And Food

Apart from the golden temples, Yangon has a lot of charm and character. Most of it, you may find, is the roughness and antiquity of the city. You will find that the road, and especially the footpath needs to be fixed up. The taxis are possibly one of the ugliest taxis in the world (and this is not just one taxi or taxi company, it’s many of them!) And of course, there is the old colonial Rangoon, with the myriad of colonial-style buildings. You can really imagine back in its hay days that it would easily be one of the wealthiest cities in Asia!

Below are some more things I got to experience in Yangon:

The Strand Hotel

There is one hotel in Yangon that is considered one of the best small hotels in the world, and this is not just another 5 star hotel. The Strand hotel was built in 1901 by the Sarkies Brothers, who are known for building remarkable hotels in Southeast Asia like the famous Raffles Hotel in Singapore and the Eastern& Oriental in Penang. The Strand is truly one place that tourists must check out while in Myanmar. This hotel has hosted several well-known historical figures and modern day celebrities like Mick Jagger, Somerset Maugham, Oliver Stone, Rudyard Kipling, and Pierre Cardin.

A high tea at the hotel’s cafe is a MUST! Try the Myanmar high tea, which comprises of a tea leaf salad, vegetarian spring rolls, a banana stew, sticky rice cake, and a couple other local delicacies. Very delicious! Truly worth trying out!

The great thing about The Strand is that it is comprised of only suite rooms and no other types of room. There are only 32 suites on offer, and it comes with a 24-hour butler service. It is absolutely luxurious, and one that many tourists only dream of staying. While I was there, I started inquiring on prices, just out of curiosity. I found out that a one-night stay at this hotel will normally cost US0, BUT, if you go during the off-peak season (May-September), the hotel offers a heavily discounted rate of US0! This is absolutely an awesome deal, considering it also includes a buffet breakfast and the 24-hour butler service! It costs about the same as some standard 4-star hotels in other parts of the world!

Of Monsoon and Biryani

Now let’s talk about food! Food glorious food! I love trying out different cuisines. It was my first taste of real Burmese cuisine, as you could hardly find Burmese restaurants outside Myanmar. Aside from Burmese cuisine, Myanmar is also known for having good Indian and Chinese food. This is due to the fact that Myanmar has a good number of Indian settlers who were brought in by the British to work in the farms and mines. They stayed on and kept their culture and cuisine, and has now formed part of Myanmar’s culinary repertoire.

I managed to try an Indian restaurant in the heart of Yangon. This restaurant is quite basic, but it is clean and very efficient. In fact, it can easily beat McDonald’s hands down when it comes to service! The Indian restaurant is called Nilar’s Biryani, and their specialty is, of course, Biryani! It was quite a different biryani from what I have tried before, but I think it must be based on a recipe from a different region in India, perhaps the southern part or somewhere near Kolkata (Calcutta). The Biryani at Nilar’s Biryani shop was the cheapest meal I had in Myanmar, and one of the tastiest!

Another great restaurant I tried there was the much-rated Monsoon Restaurant, which is considered one of the top restaurants in Yangon. It offers typical Burmese dishes, as well as dishes from other parts of Indochina, particularly Thai and Vietnamese dishes. The ambience at Monsoon Restaurant is certain great, and while it may not be the cheapest place to eat in town, the price is very reasonable and still very cheap for Western standards. The food was excellent, and I would recommend it to people who would want a good restaurant to go to in Yangon that looks clean and has airconditioning.

Both these restaurants were also recommended by Lonely Planet’s Myanmar guidebook

Shopping at the Scott Market

Yangon has one big market that is a must visit if you want to shop for souvenirs, crafts and jewellery. This market is known as Bogyoke (pronounced Bo-joke) Market (formerly known as Scott Market). Myanmar is known for its abundant supply of jade and precious gemstones like sapphire, ruby, turquoise. My mom wanted some jade jewellery and I found so much jade that market! I was spoilt for choice! It also sells things like the traditional longyi, clothing, footwear, cosmetics, jewellery.

This is also a great place to change your US Dollars to local currency (called kyat – pronounced as “chat”). The one thing that you will find strange though is that there are no money changer or foreign exchange counters in this market. It’s all black market when it comes to currency exchange in Myanmar. The government banks have terrible rates so don’t bother with them. Most people opt to go to these “money changers” who would approach you and ask “Excuse me sir, change money?” Do not be afraid of these people, but canvas and negotiate on the rate. And more importantly, get the kyat from them first before handing over your US Dollar or foreign currency (just to be sure that they actually have the money).

City Views from Sakura Building

The Sakura Building is Yangon’s tallest building, and it offers great views of the city. The 20th floor has a restaurant called Thiripitsaya restaurant, which serves traditional Myanmar dishes as well as Western-style food. At night, they have Happy Hour from 5pm-11pm, and beer is only . You can see the Shwe Dagon on one side, and the Sule Pagoda and Yangon River on the other side. You will also get a view of the cityscape of Yangon, mainly the look of the crumbling colonial buildings and rusted roofs. Admittedly, they give a distinctive character to the city.

Walking on Broken Footpath, Riding On Rusty Taxis

One thing you will notice as you go around Yangon’s central city is that the footpath is not as smooth as other places. Sure, a lot of Asian cities would have the same problem, but the degree of degradation of Myanmar’s footpath is more evident in that you would kinda need to hopscotch your way on the pieces of cement and stones.. Watch out for manholes that have been left uncovered. There are some that have a bamboo pole sticking out with a plastic bag tied to one end to mark that there is a manhole there.

Aside from the broken footpath, you will also notice that a good number of Yangon’s taxis are very old and ill-maintained. So much so that sometimes I feel like those cars are going to just fall apart in the middle of the road! Such is the degree of poverty there that people can’t afford to fix up old cars. In their credit, most people in Myanmar drive gently, and I haven’t really seen or experienced a driver that made my heart skip a beat! So despite their rundown conditions, the taxis in Yangon are quite safe. Being in one of them is one of those experiences that you will remember just because of the sheer horror of the look of their vehicles.

Yangon is not so much a touristy city from my experience. It has a certain rustic charm that will definitely appeal to those who seek out adventure and get a feel of what Asia was like 50 years ago. Not much of the infrastructure has changed, and life in Yangon is still quite laid back and simple.

More stories on Myanmar coming your way, so watch out for it!

Have a Fabulous Journey ahead!

Where I stayed
Movenpick Hotel Frankfurt